Best hangboarding for hypertrophy reddit. 12<) without hangboarding.
- Best hangboarding for hypertrophy reddit. Something I can easily log each set/reps and preferably something that auto regulates when to + the weight based on what I log. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. trueHave you ever seen Emil Abrahamsson's video on sub-bodyweight hangboarding protocol that's referred to in other training companies/articles as "minimums" or something like that? It's 10 sets of 10 second hangs at 30%-50% BW with 50 seconds rest between sets. I added accessory to arms never saw growth. It is worth noting I will be hangboarding twice a week during this time. Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. Strength & Hypertrophy Training: A Programming Guide - The very basics of strength/hypertrophy training and how to design your own effective, research based resistance training program. My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. I quickly got to where I could hang off the smallest hold which is a 12mm crimp. This is most effectively accomplished by increase the weight used. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. Seems to be a good way to introduce and learn some hangboarding but I'm still a beginner so what do I know! I am slightly confused on what this is for tbh. Where do you all place hangboarding in your routine? Is it better to place it on the same day as hard bouldering session or do it on a rest day (which is most likely sandwiched between two days of climbing)? Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. RDLs and good mornings are way more effective for hamstring/posterior chain. I imagine it is because hypertrophy work can coexist easily within various forms of training. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. Isometrics aren't the greatest for hypertrophy anyway (?), but if you throw out that climbing specificity and try for size, the programs here for instance give you some interesting hang times. I ended up getting a set of crimps from 10-5mm and also made some bigger edges up to 20mm out of some hardwood I had on hand. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. Can't imagine going back to doing "leg days". Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. Thoughts on my upper day for hypertrophy? submitted 1 hour ago by anihalatologist. But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. Small crimps better with max hang timings (one set: 7-10 sec on / 2-5 minutes rest) by not adding weight but reducing the edge size. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch) The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. 32 votes, 97 comments. In terms of hangboarding, personally, I think every day is a bit excessive. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. For most people it’s best to only hangboard (max hangs) on non-climbing days, assuming you also don’t climb the day before or after hangboarding. Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. That said, I agree that hypertrophy should not be the goal. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. What is the proper arm, shoulder, and torso positioning for safe and effective hangboarding? No matter the fingerboard protocol you choose, it’s essential to train with good technique! Maintain muscular tension throughout your shoulders and upper torso by engaging your scapular stabilizers and rotator cuff—think "shoulders down, chest out". Yves gravelle has luck with it. In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. Hypertrophy does have a lot of overlap with strength, and plateaus in strength gains usually call for a hypertrophy phase in training, so I think it's something worth keeping in mind. Dave says two days per week of hangboarding is the minimum to make any gains. I didnt get too much bigger with any previous routine i ran, i have ran proper bulks with the routines too. A general guideline is that you want to hit each muscle group 2 times, or more, per week to maximize hypertrophy . I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. I may be wrong but it's my understanding that 5-day splits tend to be less advantageous for hypertrophy due to the nature of protein synthesis, though. Dec 6, 2022 · Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. I've been following the intermediate Eva Lopez hangboarding routine that is two days per week and put big emphasis on resting at least 48 hours between sessions. See full list on climbing. I thought the last slide was interesting about the progression from beginner to advanced best follows full body --> upper/lower --> PPL --> full body. Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. You might feel a lot stronger but you still need to prioritize your health. Aug 22, 2022 · If you’re new to climbing, the best way to improve is simply to climb. Right now I'm doing strength training (roughly based on 5x5) in the buildup to my hockey season 3x per week. Hangboard hypertrophy is mostly limited to repeaters (?) but 7/3 and 5/5 were both chosen because they mimic climbing durations (?). Hi all, I'm looking for advice on how to start hangboarding and when to fit it into my climbing routine. 18 votes, 25 comments. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. I boulder ~v8 and after hanging on a set of campus rungs for a year, I am pretty set on upgrading to a Beastmaker 1k since it seems to have the best set of ultra-comfy holds for both weighted hangs and one-armed hangs. When would I incorporate campus and hangboarding into my routine. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. If you're interested in the physiological mechanisms of strength and hypertrophy, I cover them in depth in Part 2 of the OGO series. L-sits, hollow holds and planks probably help hypertrophy a bit, but not much. I just found it too boring! My current finger strength metrics are: (I weigh 65kg - 179cm) ~+50kg on lattice 20mm rung (possibly more, tested Dec. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. I'd recommend taking it serious at first then gradually moving into power/campus work but continuing to climb intermittently. Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. On off days I'm playing cricket, and most days I try and do some mobility and flexibility. Im having trouble finding a solid routine to run to build size primarily. I tested my max It begins with a little talk on the utility of one arm hangs (sport specificity, time constraints, measurability) but it quickly gives way to a discussion on the specifics of isometrics and small muscle hypertrophy. If my goal is right now to work on pull ups, but my long term goals will also include hangboarding, what should I install now? I am renting, so I'm trying to minimize damage, but I am willing to drill into the studs and spackle during move out. If you’re stronger, hangboarding on a climbing day, before climbing, is fine. You'd have to really dial in the movement to prevent getting the shoulders involved. This is best for muscle hypertrophy and the energy/recovery systems. I've tried it, but I could never commit to it. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? Thought I'd post this here to open a thread on people's thoughts. First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. What are the best exercises for ab hypertrophy? I get that abs are made in the kitchen and all that, but if they aren't significantly hypertrophied they'll look pretty sad and flat. I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. Here we get a really solid cited quote re: isometric joint angles: I think the caveat to this is if you use this as a warm up or rehab/prehab with light weight, so low intensity coupled with higher tut, which imo, will yield best results for injury prevention. I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. This is true whether you’re working 5. Apr 9, 2018 · Forearm hypertrophy increased substantially (see above picture). For me, the routine actually did wonders for my climbing. If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. and thats not even including things that arent finger related which is a myriad of things which can bump you up several grades. If you had to choose 4 hamstring exercises with the goal of obtaining the greatest gains, what would they be? I want to do… I believe that hangboarding has had a positive impact for me! Subjectively (how it feels on the rock) half crimp went from weak to in line with other grips. 12<) without hangboarding. I’ve been climbing for ~3 years and have done a single V9 benchmark on the 2016 Moonboark, as well as a few V8s. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. a lot. In terms of programming I'm doing them at the end of my hangboarding Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. Overall I would say it's about quality and not quantity. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. I switch depending on what sports and activities I'm doing. I would like to know which of these programs you have tried and which one has worked best for you in terms of gaining muscle mass. " Medical professionals use "Myofibrillar, muscle, hypertrophy" for the results of following a "Training for strength" routine. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. com You would need to use the entire ROM to get the best benefit for hypertrophy. General strength training is nice because it makes you feel like you're doing something, but it has very little benefit for hangs or for climbing. To make story short, I'm not progressing. Looking at the logs, 3 Hey guys looking for a solid 5 day pre made hypertrophy program on an app that I can download on my phone. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. outsideonline. I have an embarrassingly weak upper body (working on it!), and my Instead of buying a pull up bar, can I use a hangboard for regular pull ups and later on use the hangboard for more intensive training? Nay. I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. I've used this protocol for literally everything. Reply reply D_Sl4yer • I should start by saying I'm not terribly worried about getting specific numbers, after all this is just hangboarding but it does raise some questions on training as a whole and other than that not seeing any progress is quite discouraging. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. Ideally something like the RP app but without the huge price. I don't think thoughtful, well-read people are arguing that hangboarding is inherently injurious to new climbers. I continued to improve for a long time using the linear approach, just increasing the loads. For context I’m (20M) 6’1” (1. I know hangboarding is basically that: An isolated exercise for your forearms and fingers, but maybe we should all be working on low-rep high-intensity workouts similar to that of max hangs, but with weights. Sure it trains a lot of muscles, but does it train any of them effectively? No. I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small devices if you think there's a better way to train pinch strength and experience gains. I see a lot of people, both here and in real life, looking to start hangboarding but feeling too… I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. I’m not a sports scientist but where in any other hypertrophy protocol for any other muscle is a 20 second isometric hold used to stimulate hypertrophy? Or does it make more sense that the forearms, like any other muscle, are going to respond to a hypertrophy protocol that looks more like 8-12 reps at 60-80% of max effort per rep. I am evaluating different hypertrophy programs offered by some well-known trainers. Details may vary depending on training age. This is especially true if you haven't been climbing for years and years. This is in contrast to bodybuilders who don't care as much about moving heavy weights but mainly on hypertrophy -- anything in the about 5-30 rep range is good for hypertrophy. Be careful with small crimps - better train weighted repeaters and max hang only on bigger grips (18-20 mm edges). I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). The argument is more "hangboarding is unnecessary (and occasionally detrimental) to new climbers because all the positive adaptations of hangboarding can be induced by thoughtfully organizing a climbing routine on the wall". Hi all. I've been climbing for roughly three years now, and in that time I've never done any properly regimented hangboarding. Tried to design it around the concept of antagonistic muscle pairs, or atleast close to it. As part of my warmup I always include hangboarding with working down to the smallest edges Rest times for Hypertrophy - 30-90 seconds between sets and exercises As long as you need to recover in order to hit the target reps with the weight you're using. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. 85m) and weigh around 190 lbs (84kg). Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. However, this may be offset depending on the amount of hard (er) climbing that one does. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. How to hangboard for strength? What grips and edge size? How long should you hang? One arm or two? You need to know the answers to these questions and we've With no training history on hangboarding - I would start with repeaters. What youre saying makes sense to me if youre doing density hangs at 50-80% max and have had many years experience both climbing and hangboarding. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. His approach seems to be low The 5 main methods to achieve maximal hypertrophy - some of these I don't quite get. For natural lifters who have established a solid base of strength (intermediate level or beyond), what is the best approach for hypertrophy? I've read lots of different approaches regarding frequency, volume, and intensity. Your tendons might not be ready for the stress at this level; a hangboard really is a tool for when you have plateaued your strength gains from just climbing and improving technique isn't helping. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. I've been actively hangboarding for about 8 years now and of course, I started off with the traditional 7-3 repeaters protocol. Hangboarding over the past 2 months has definitely improved my finger strength though. I find that despite my interest in training a wide variety of athletic qualities, hypertrophy training is always something I circle back to with enthusiasm. Last point: This is why hangboarding is an interesting phenomenon. Best rep range - At least 3 sets of at It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. . So as you can see, I didn't really feel like I was at that stage where hangboarding was going to be a regular part of my training, but now it looks like the best alternative thus far if gyms close down again or I think its too risky to go. Many really strong climbers do hard bouldering, campusboarding, and hangboarding for multiple days in a row. The answer is it depends. I’ve recently noticed a large disparity in hangboard strength between myself and many of the people I climb with. Unfortunately, I did not think to take before/after pictures or measurements, but here is approximately how much my forearms hypertrophied over the course of the couple weeks. For hypertrophy? it's like doing power cleans for hypertrophy. If you want to stimulate climbing muscles and get stronger, figure out some other training to do so you aren't overloading on the tendons. 2021) 5 sec one arm hang on beastmaker 14mm edge I climb on the moonboard pretty Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. 5 or 5. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. Whats the best routine youve ran to build size? Ive ran 531 BBB and BtM, ive done nsuns, and upper lower. May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. Here is an example of a high-volume split used by some juiced redditor to get big. Finger strength is rarely the limiting factor in my climbs anymore, been doing it for 2 months now and I still keep seeing benefits. If you don't progress with some scheme described above you are either super strong already or you should think about fixing your climbing training on wall because thats where 90% of your training load shall happen. Hey dudeskis, My new apartment doesn’t have space for a hangboard, so I’m planning on getting a “the block” from tension climbing or a gripster. I’ve been training for purely hypertrophy (never below 5 reps, plenty of exercises over the years) for years but noticed a few of the natural bodybuilders on YT like Alex Leonidas train more in a powerbuilder style with max effort singles, etc. However, on the whole, the advantage you get from working in the hypertrophy range isn’t nearly as big as people seem to think; maybe a ~10-15% advantage per unit of effort invested at most. So training for hypertrophy by doing barbell finger rolls will make you stronger in the long run, no one is saying that its the best training for short term performance, but 1 year out, it will be more beneficial than campusing. One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. The last paragraph was very interesting. r/naturalhypertrophy: Discussions about fitness, health, and nutrition relating to the Natural Hypertrophy channel. Start hangboarding any sooner than two years into your climbing career, and you might as well start reading about injury recovery now. Hypertrophy, the golden goose. Hangboarding isnt climbing. (I assume you are not doing it for hypertrophy). Mini-Daily – light weight, decent reps, medium rest between reps, 10 minute stimulus (example: 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off, 10 times, 20% of max weight) – do twice daily (at least 6 hours rest between). Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). I weigh about 180 and the bulk of my Do which ever best fits your schedule and modulate intensity accordingly. ). I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. So for 4/week I would recommend full-body or upper-lower. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? I think most people add stuff to hangboarding because just the hangs seems to simple to be effective. To medical professionals the results of following a "Training for hypertrophy" routine is called "Sarcoplasmic, muscle, hypertrophy. I usually climb for a few hours then do a bodyweight workout with rings. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. Objectively my pyramid has filled out and I hit a new max grade. 13 outdoors and v8-9 max indoors. So for about 3 months I've hanged twice a week, one repeaters session and one max hangs. Would I campus and hangboard to warmup or after everything? Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment the_birds_and_bees • I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Muscles gain strength quicker than connective tissue, after all, so too much The single most important factor to increase hypertrophy is progressive overload, which refers to increasing the amounts of stress placed upon the body over time. For example, I've seen people advocating the work of Mike Matthews. I also reduced my overall volume when I started hanging, by eliminating one day at the gym; recovery is better! The hardest thing about hangboarding for beginners is to not get overconfident and start going to smaller edges and adding weight after a couple of sessions. Wondering if anyone has transferred from hangboarding to using one of these and if they have any suggestions for determining what weights I should get so I don’t end up wasting a ton of dough. I'm a 17y/o girl on a comp team, I've been climbing for five years, low-end 5. 129 votes, 79 comments. After a week of hangboarding twice a day, I never felt the need to tape my fingers anymore. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. So what is the best way to spend an hour or so on a hangboard? Bearing in mind it will probably be once or twice a week, not on a fixed day (my calendar is extremely variable). The first rule of hangboarding is don't get injured on the hangboard. So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. Now muscle / strength is increasing best when max, hypertrophy and endurance loads are applied. r/naturalbodybuilding Current search is within r/naturalbodybuilding Remove r/naturalbodybuilding filter and expand search to all of Reddit A general rule of thumb seems to be climbing V5/6 consistently before hangboarding. I boulder for 5 to 10 I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). In addition, gains made by climbing are still better than what you'll get from hangboarding, so it really shouldn't take priority over climbing. Many of the most highly regarded coaches provide conflicting approaches. Best hangboarding routine for newbie gains I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. Finger coordination on small holds, skin, active tension on muscle vs passive, more power and contact strength. Something that theoretically is relatively low risk-- results in anecdote after anecdote after anecdote in practice of people getting hurt. I'm not saying rest 15 minutes between sets but if one set is particularly taxing on both your muscles and cardiovascular / respiratory systems, taking 2-5 minutes isn't going to hurt at all. It's really just a means to further train strength. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. The authors seem a little The “hypertrophy range” of roughly 6-15 reps per set may produce slightly better results per unit of time invested than low rep and high rep work. 12, and regardless of what your local gym-rat crusher proclaims. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. Traditional bodybuilding work will continue to take up most of my foreamwork, but maybe ill experiment with some hangboard work, and if I respond well to it I can see myself using more of it. I think that finger strength is definitely a limiting factor in my climbing, particularly max finger strength. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to others, especially if you've been doing one kind to maybe consider switching things up. Assuming you are using Anderson Brothers' training protocol, by the time you are done (warm up + hangboard), you should be sufficiently tired that compound lifts are probably not the best exercises to follow, especially if you are looking for max strength gain. The average natural men can expect, assuming they do most things right, to gain between 40-50 pounds of muscle mass in his training journey. What is the best routine or type of routine for a natty looking to maximize upper body hypertrophy? The best way to injure yourself (and the worst way to progress) on a hangboard is through overuse. That's how I've found to optimize things as I've progressed. I do it closer to the bottom of the spectrum (30% BW) for In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. Running a 4 day upper/lower, bodyweight for compounds and weights for isolation. diff being you can start with less than bw. cikhkhj ojbk szz kgn ebmpt hxl npgoiv mzdq gjq nrscwdu